Dr. Kate's Favourite Exfoliants

Exfoliation is one of the most misunderstood parts of skincare. It’s easy to assume that smoother skin means scrubbing harder or using the strongest acid available, but true exfoliation should work with the skin, not against it.

Chemical exfoliants gently dissolve the bonds that hold dead cells together, revealing a brighter, more even surface underneath. Unlike physical scrubs, they also stimulate cell turnover, unclog pores and support better absorption of active ingredients.

At Youth Lab and Youth Lab Direct, we use and recommend a range of chemical and enzyme exfoliants because they offer precision, consistency and long-term results without compromising the delicate skin barrier.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk sugars. 

They work primarily on the surface of the skin, making them ideal for brightening, smoothing texture and improving dullness.

The most common AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size, meaning it penetrates effectively to dissolve dead cells and boost collagen.
On the other hand, lactic acid is more gentle and hydrating, making it ideal for dry or sensitive skin.

Both ingredients increase luminosity and reduce the appearance of fine lines when used regularly, but they must be balanced with hydration and daily SPF protection.

Recommended product:

Alpha-H Liquid Gold 

A cult classic containing glycolic acid that resurfaces, brightens and refines without stripping. Perfect for dull or mature skin needing radiance.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

BHAs, most commonly salicylic acid, are oil-soluble and penetrate into pores, making them ideal for acne-prone or congested skin. They dissolve sebum and debris while reducing inflammation and redness.

Regular use helps prevent blackheads and breakouts while improving clarity and smoothness. BHAs are also naturally anti-inflammatory, which makes them suitable even for sensitive or rosacea-prone complexions in low concentrations.

Recommended product:

Cosmedix Clarify Foaming Cleanser

A lightweight, salicylic acid-based foaming cleanser that deeply cleans pores and removes excess oil without over-drying. Perfect for combination, oily or breakout-prone skin.

 

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs)

PHAs such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are often called “next-generation acids.”

They provide gentle exfoliation along with humectant properties, meaning they hydrate while refining texture.

Due to their larger molecular size, they penetrate slowly and cause less irritation, making them excellent for dry, sensitive or barrier-compromised skin, including those with rosacea.

Recommended product:

Medik8 Press & Glow

A gentle PHA toner with gluconolactone that smooths texture and enhances glow while maintaining moisture balance.

Enzyme exfoliants

Enzyme exfoliants use natural enzymes derived from fruit (such as papaya, pineapple or pumpkin) to digest the proteins that hold dead cells together. They don’t alter pH or dissolve lipids, which makes them extremely gentle.

Enzymes are a perfect introduction to exfoliation for those with sensitive skin, redness or impaired barriers, and they’re safe to use alongside other actives such as retinol or vitamin c.

Recommended product:

Cosmedix Pure Enzymes Exfoliating Mask 

A brightening, fruit enzyme-based mask containing lactic acid and cranberry enzymes to gently dissolve surface cells, refine pores and restore natural radiance.

Azelaic acid

Although technically a dicarboxylic acid, azelaic acid deserves mention for its unique multitasking profile. It gently exfoliates while reducing inflammation, calming redness and regulating pigmentation. It is particularly beneficial for rosacea, hormonal breakouts and post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Recommended product:

Aspect Dr Clear Skin Complex

Contains azelaic acid and niacinamide to reduce congestion, redness and uneven tone without irritation.

Dr Kate’s final thoughts

The best exfoliant is the one your skin can tolerate regularly. Over-exfoliation is one of the most common causes of barrier damage and redness I see in the clinic.

Start slow, use the right formula for your skin type and always follow with hydration and SPF.

Chemical and enzyme exfoliants are powerful when used intelligently, reach out to our team if you need help deciding which one is right for you.