Dr Kate’s most underrated skincare ingredient revealed

Every year, skincare trends come and go, vitamin c serums have their moment, then niacinamide takes the spotlight, followed by peptides, retinol and whatever TikTok decides is the next miracle.

Despite this, the ingredient that truly deserves more attention isn’t new, shiny or trending. It’s one that sits quietly in the background of almost every great formulation, working harder than most people realise.

That ingredient is panthenol, also known as provitamin B5.

Why panthenol deserves the spotlight 

Panthenol doesn’t promise instant transformation or viral glow, but it’s one of the few ingredients that consistently improves the way the skin functions. It’s a humectant, an anti-inflammatory and a barrier-strengthening agent all in one.

When applied topically, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid, a key component of the skin’s natural repair system. It binds to water molecules, helping the skin hold onto hydration, while also soothing irritation and reducing inflammation. Essentially, it teaches stressed or compromised skin how to heal itself.

For anyone who experiences sensitivity, dryness, barrier impairment, or post-procedure inflammation, panthenol is quietly working behind the scenes to calm, comfort and restore balance.

The science behind it

Panthenol has been shown in multiple studies to increase skin hydration and improve the barrier’s ability to retain moisture. It enhances lipid synthesis, accelerates wound healing, and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Clinically, it’s one of the most versatile actives we use at Youth Lab,  gentle enough for post-laser skin, yet effective enough to support long-term barrier repair in conditions like dermatitis or chronic dryness.

It also plays beautifully with actives like retinol and exfoliating acids, helping to offset irritation while maintaining treatment results.

Who benefits from panthenol?

In short: almost everyone.

• Sensitive or reactive skin – calms redness and itching, improving tolerance to other ingredients.
• Post-treatment skin – supports healing after laser, needling or chemical peels.
• Dehydrated skin – restores softness and elasticity without heaviness.
• Acne-prone skin – hydrates without clogging pores and reduces inflammation.
• Ageing skin – maintains moisture and barrier integrity, which decline naturally over time.

It’s also a brilliant addition for menopausal or perimenopausal skin, where the barrier becomes thinner and less able to retain moisture.

Where to find it?

Panthenol rarely headlines a formula, but it’s found in some of my favourite products for restoring comfort, especially when skin feels stripped or tight. Look for it in gentle cleansers, hydrating serums and barrier-repair creams.

My top panthenol-based picks (available at Youth Lab Direct)

Youth Rx Hydrating Elixir

Formulated with panthenol and multi-weight hyaluronic acid for deep, sustained hydration. It calms the skin instantly while reinforcing the barrier.

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

A cult classic for sensitised or compromised skin. Rich in panthenol, shea butter and madecassoside to soothe irritation and support repair.

PCA Skin Hydraluxe Moisturiser

Combines panthenol with lipids and antioxidants to strengthen and plump dehydrated skin without clogging pores.

Cosmedix Harmonize Microbiome Moisturiser

A probiotic-infused formula with panthenol that restores balance to reactive, redness-prone skin.

Aspect Gentle Clean Facial Cleanser

A mild cleanser infused with panthenol and antioxidants that cleanses without disrupting the skin barrier.

Panthenol isn’t glamorous or headline-grabbing,  but it’s quietly essential.

It’s the ingredient I reach for when skin feels compromised, fragile or inflamed, because it never fails to deliver comfort and stability.

In an industry obsessed with actives and “quick fixes,” sometimes the best results come from ingredients that simply help the skin work the way it’s supposed to.